Leading a Body Panel The Gene Winfield Way.

In 1955 “Bondo” came out as the first plastic body filler and made fixing imperfections in metal much easier than before. Today fixing dents and smoothing imperfections in a body panel has been simplified to where it’s almost as “easy” as mixing two bits of putty, applying it to the panel, and sanding it all smooth. Before those days the only option was the process of “leading”. During this process you melt sticks made up of mostly lead and a small portion of tin onto the surface. With the invention and evolution of plastic body fillers the art of leading a body panel has been slowly dying out, but if you want to keep “traditional” or true to the era of the car you’re building; leading is the only way.

Only a few guy from the golden age of kustomizing and hot rodding are still with us, and even less are still working on cars. One of the best is Gene Winfield and even today, well into his 80’s he’s still traveling the world kustomizing old cars and teaching classes about metal shaping, leading, and anything you want to know about custom cars. I was lucky enough to catch up with him at one of his recent metal working seminars to get the process he uses to apply lead to a panel.

Gene is a long time Eastwood customer and supporter. In fact he use Eastwood leading supplies and claims we have some of the best products to apply lead on the market! Aside from an Oxy-Acetylene torch, below are the basic supplies you’ll need to lead a panel. We’ll explain each as Gene shows the process.


The first and most important part you need is for your Oxy-Acetylene torch and is a diffusor tip for body soldering or leading. This tip slips over your pre-existing torch tip and allows you to use only Acetylene to produce a soft flame that is easier to control when leading or soldering a body panel. The gas should be set to about 10-12 PSI before lighting the torch and fine-tuned once the torch is lit.


Once the torch is burning properly and you’ve cleaned the work area down to bare metal you can open your tinning butter to “tin” the panel. Tinning butter is like the “glue” that allows the lead or body solder to adhere to the panel and not just run off. Gene says he actually prefers the Eastwood compound because it is thicker than all the others on the marker. Our tinning butter has been specially formulated with thickening agents that gives the tinning butter a paste-like consistency that makes it much easier to apply. Gene advises to use a common household copper cleaning pad like you’d use for pots and pans. These can handle the heat involved in the tinning process and are easy to replace when they go bad. First you want to heat the panel with your torch to burn off any contaminants and also so that you can melt the tinning butter onto the panel. The key is to heat the panel just beyond warm but NOT until it is red hot. As you heat the panel dip your copper pad (hold the pad with pliers for safety!) into the tinning butter and wipe the panel with the tinning butter-coated copper pad. The panel should take on a “shiny” silver finish as you tin the work area. Gene suggests to prepare an area a bit larger than where you need to apply the lead or body solder so that you can feather edges and there isn’t a hard or defined edge where the body solder stops. Once the entire work area is prepared you need to neutralize the acid left from the tinning butter by cleaning the area with a baking soda and water solution. Clean the tinned area very well as any areas left untouched will have an acid in them that can tend to come through the coatings over time and cause primer and paint failure.






The last picture above shows a properly tinned and prepared panel for lead or body solder. Now you are ready for the fun (and tricky) part of this process, applying the lead or body solder. Before you go melting your filler rods and making a mess you need to properly prepare the paddles for smoothing the lead. Most of these paddles are made of wood and vary in size and shape depending on the area you’re working on and your personal preference. Unfortunately lead and body solder like to stick to a dry paddle and can make a mess. To stop that from happening you need to lubricate the paddle so it will glide over the lead and easily smooth it out. This is where paddle lubricant comes in. Quality paddle lubricants should be made up of a portion of either bees wax or animal fat. Either one is acceptable and it’s a personal preference on which you prefer. Our tallow of lubricant that Gene is demonstrating with is an animal fat based lubricant.

Gene uses a pretty unique method to lubricate his paddles. He takes a piece of jean material and lays it out next to the tallow of lubricant first. He then waves the torch over the lubricant just enough to melt the surface and digs a small dab of lubricant out of the tallow and drops it on the jean material. He then quickly waves the flame over the small dab and spreads it out into the jean scrap. Gene explains that you only want a very thin film of the lubricant on the paddle and by rubbing the paddle into the warm, lubricant-soaked jean scrap you’re able to apply a fine film instead of dipping it into a puddle of lubricant. The other upside is that you can save lubricant by just having to reheat the jean scrap quickly and again rub the paddle over the surface to put another thin film on it.




With the panel tinned, and the paddle lubricated, we’re ready to apply lead or body solder to the panel. The technique for applying the lead varies greatly. I’ve commonly seen guys that will heat the panel and twist globs of filler into the work area, then reheat and smooth with the paddle, but Gene has a slightly different, technique. Gene starts by again heating the entire work area up until it is just a bit past warm and then begins melting the filler rod into the panel. He prefers to lay the rod at about a 45 degree angle and heat the end of the rod until it turns to a soft “plastic” like consistency and then allows the filler to lay out in strips until it is stuck to the panel. After Gene gets the filler rod melted to the panel he again goes back and reheats the work area and then goes back into the filler he’s laid and reheats it until it is into the plastic stage again and begins to slowly dab and push it outward with the lubricated wooden paddle. This part of the process really takes some practice to balance the heat of the panel, the body solder, and calculated movements with the paddle to efficiently push the filler around and smooth the surface out. The nice thing about body solder or lead is that you can take as many shots as you want at reheating it and smoothing the surface further.

When I asked Gene about lead-free body solder vs. true lead filler he explained that it works ok, but is more difficult to control as there is less time between the filler rod being in the soft plastic stage and turning to a liquid and running off of the panel. He suggested that anyone learning to use lead-free body solder should begin by practicing on a flat panel to make the process a little easier.







With your first round of body solder or lead added to the panel and “roughed in” you can recheck the panel and see if you need to add anymore filler rods to the work area. During this process you may need to lubricate the paddle again if you see the filler beginning to stick to the bottom of it. Gene also showed us an advanced technique for vertical panels where he used the backside of the torch to push the filler rods into the panel before reheating and smoothing them into the work area. It sure looked difficult, but he assures me it can be done with some practice!





Once you have the lead smoothed out onto the panel you can take a flat or half round body file and start knocking the high spots down until the area is smooth and ready for primer and paint. Lead IS in fact dangerous for prolonged exposure or to breathe in. We suggest a respirator and gloves during this entire process, but especially when you’re filing it down. Lead Free body solder can be treated more like plastic body filler and you can use a DA sander or grinder to smooth the area out. But because lead is so toxic, you do not want it floating around in the air when you sand it to a dust using a sander.

I’m very thankful that Gene was willing to share this process with us and give some insight on the art of leading. I’d highly suggest attending one of his classes if he is in your area, they’re worth it! Be sure to check out our full line of body solder and leading supplies including all of what Gene used in this demonstration here:


  1. this is great, just what I was looking for. once I finish the project I am working on now I can start this project on my porsche. thanks

  2. Hi you are using a Oxy-Acetylene torch. But why not Propane C3H3 or even an electric soldering iron? (the last for small areas)

    Terje Haugnes

  3. That is pretty much they way my Uncle taught me to do it in 1955. I still like lead more than plastic but plastic is soooo fast.

  4. Oxy-Acetylene torch is a little easier to fine tune with the leading tip, but a propane torch could be used, just isn’t as optimal. The leading tip we offer is as small or smaller than the tip of a propane torch so you can get in small areas. A soldering iron wouldn’t work as you need to heat the entire surface you’re applying the lead to first. Again with a Oxy-Acetylene torch you can keep the panel during the process much easier.

  5. I see lots of articles that detail the prep and laying of lead(solder) but they always end with “shape with a file” and “sand non-lead solder” – but what about getting lead smooth – can you get it smooth enough for paint with just filing?

  6. Why wasn’t this done as a video in this day and age?? Hands on learners would have benefitted more!!

  7. I’m in my 70’s and still not too old to learn a few tricks. I progressed from being a “Bondo Slapper” in the early 70’s when I bought my Oxy-acetylene set up. I taught myself to hammerweld and lead on a ’30 Model A and never looked back. The demo was great as it reinforced some of the lessons I learned the hard way. I will now neutralize/clean after the tinning operation and not when I’m finished with the lead. I’ve never experienced any bleed thru but doing it the way Gene suggests makes more sense. I use a Turbo-Torch that I use for brazing refrigerant lines. It has a wide tip for spreading the heat more evenly. As Gene pointed out, you do not want to overheat the area you are leading. The big advantage is that once a seam or repair is properly leaded it lasts forever. My daily driver is a 65 Mustang convertible that was done in ’85 and you still can’t see any indication of where it was patched. Thanks Chris

  8. Great information from one of our old school masters!

    Where can I get the diffusor tip for my torch that Gene recommends?

    Thank you.

  9. Thank you for covering this subject, there is truely an art to this process.

    Is there a video that demonstrates Gene’s technique?n

    Thank you.

  10. Hi Tom,

    I made a short collage video but was trying to shoot photos of the technique mostly so it was tough to get it both shot with my phone AND trying to learn myself! Check out the collage video on our instagram from back on April 5th here” http://instagram.com/eastwoodco

  11. The small problem with shooting a video was that this was during a class Gene was holding with 30+ other people there other than myself, I wasn’t able to control the enviroment like needed for video. I did shoot a short collage video and posted it on our Instagram if you’d like to see an abbreviated version. You can find it if you scroll back to the video on April 5 here: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-body-soldering-diffuser-tip.html



  12. Yes you can get it smooth enough for primer and then paint. If you use progressively finer files you can get it all smooth enough to apply a high build primer or sealer that you can than block sand out.

    Hope that helps!


  13. From what I was taught, you should never go above 15 psi on Acetylene because it will “violently disassociate” per MFG warnings. Are you sure the pressure was set at 15-20 psi?

  14. This brings back memories from my early “60’s. I read all the Rod Books of the time and was lucky enough to have a Fartherinlaw who was both Jack & Master of all. I still have the No:1 annual “HOT ROD” Custom Car Year book which I studied back then featuring young Gene and the rest of the boys…….Keepit going Fellas, and best regards…COOKIE.

  15. I taught myself how to lead in 1959 when I built a 31 ford roadster. I just used an acetylene torch. It took lots of practice and time; but I got it done. Just be careful of the fumes.

  16. I have a hollow brass bead that finishes the wheel arch(Jaguar XK-150).
    Lead should be an ideal repair for the dings if it will adhere. Any change in technique or materials?

  17. Hi Gene, yes it is a similar process, but you MUST make sure the area you’re filling is VERY VERY clean before hand!

  18. I have a 70 Coronet that I’m starting on is the sheetmetal on these old Mopars to thin to lead ? THANX!

  19. Lead can be applied or used on your vehicle, but some practice is required to get the best results and not warp your panels too much!

  20. What I got out of the demo was a tip that is hard to come by. Right after tinning, neutralize the acid. I always thought you did that after leading. Explains why bubbles appeared in my paint years after I leaded up a panel

  21. You state acetylene only at 15-20 psi. I was taught that acetylene was unstable and dangerous at that pressure that’s why those numbers are beep in the red zone on the gauge. I think you’re mistaken about that part.

  22. Hello, I have a 69 Chevelle the tail light housing is white metal cast the quarter is sheet metal, can you lead the seam so you don’t see the seam? Thanks Mike P.

  23. What a great video. Thanks Eastwood. I remember touring the GM plant in Mass. When I was dating my wife. Her father worked there. I remember the guys doing the seams on the roof with lead. I don’t think it would work on newer cars though. The metal is too thin.

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