What is the Difference Between 2K AeroSpray and 2K DuraSpray?

Is DuraSpray too good to be true?

AeroSpray vs. DuraSpray 
Is DuraSpray too good to be true?
So, you’re looking to get a quality 2K coating with the ease of use of a rattle can? Eastwood now offers two different ways to get you there. There’s the Eastwood AeroSpray (which we’ve offered for a long time, you might be already familiar with it) and there’s the brand-new Eastwood DuraSpray. Aerosols are great because there’s virtually no cleanup when you’re finished but it goes much deeper than that. Each of these has their pros and cons. If you’re wondering, “what’s better for my project(s)?” You’ve come to the right place, because here are the pros and cons of each in 1500 words or less.  

Side by side look at the 2K AeroSpray and 2K DuraSpray cans

How does AeroSpray work?
Starting off with the OG product that we’ve offered for years now, Eastwood Aerospray. Here’s a quick refresher on how this works. Inside this can there’s a bladder that holds a chemical activator, you puncture that bladder by pressing the red button onto the stem on the bottom of the can. Give it a good shake, the activator and the paint mix together, a chemical reaction begins, and you can spray a true 2k paint with the ease of use of a rattle can. No air compressor or paint gun needed. 

A breakdown of what the inside of a 2K AeroSpray looks like. Full can, cutaway can, and the activator bladder.

How does DuraSpray work?
DuraSpray on the other hand, there’s no buttons or bladders to pop. It looks like a standard rattle can. It walks like a duck. It quacks like a duck, but is it a duck? Definitely not. 

What gives DuraSpray the quality of a two-component paint? Well, chemically speaking, everything that makes Duraspray a 2k paint is already mixed together inside of the can. The 2K resin, the deactivated 2K hardener, and some propellant. Here’s where the magic happens; what activates the chemical reaction is the MOISTURE in the air around you. As soon as the paint leaves the can and hits the air… boom. Your chemical reaction has started. Pretty neat stuff.  

2K DuraSpray gives you the results of a paint gun, with the ease-of-use of a rattle can

UNLIMITED POTLIFE!
UNLIMITED POWER! 
The big benefit here is that DuraSpray has an unlimited potlife. It can be used for multiple different small projects at different times. Whereas with an AeroSpray, as soon as you pop that bladder, the chemical reaction inside the can begins. There’s no way to stop it. You have 48 hours before your can of AeroSpray chemically turns itself into a jelly brick. It’s pretty frustrating to let good paint go to waste. DuraSpray solves that issue. 

DuraSpray does come with longer (full) cure times.
DuraSpray does take longer to FULLY* cure. (*DuraSpray will still be “touch dry” in 12 hours.) It will take 8-10 days before the DuraSpray coatings will be ready to handle exposure to UV, and solvents (like gasoline.) You’ll need to be gentle with your coating while you’re within that 10-day window. AeroSpray will only need 3-5 days before it’s 100% ready to hold up to chemicals and UV.

However, one thing I do have to point out is that you can speed up the DuraSpray curing process. A little infrared radiation, a little heat, or even the extra moisture on a humid day can help speed up the drying process. Since that moisture is what aids the chemical reaction. 

DuraSpray contains more paint.
One thing that is nice about DuraSpray is since there’s no bladder taking up room in the can, we can squeeze more paint inside. You’ll be able to cover more square footage using DuraSpray than what you’d be able to with Aerospray. It’s also great to know that none of that extra paint will be wasted since DuraSpray will last on the shelf for about 3-years. Once you’re done spraying DuraSpray, be sure to spray the can upside-down for 5 seconds. This clears out the nozzle making sure that you’re all set for next time. If you forget, you can always dunk the nozzle in an acetone bath to clean it up.

Spray for a few seconds upside down to clear out the nozzle.

What contains isocyanates and what doesn’t?
Let’s talk about isocyanates. Isocyanates are bad for the respiratory system. Frequent exposure is known to cause chronic asthma. You don’t want to absorb isocyanates through your skin either. All of the Aerosprays contain isocyanates. So do some DuraSprays. The DuraSpray clear coats contain isocyanates. There are NO isocyanates in the DuraSpray primers and DuraSpray topcoats. 

ALWAYS wear your respirator, ALWAYS wear gloves, but it’s nice peace of mind that at least with DuraSpray primers, and DuraSpray topcoats, there are no isocyanates to worry about. 

I think this shines through with the smell of these paints. DuraSpray is much more bearable than AeroSpray. They still both smell like paint. However, a few fans, and an open garage door will easily take care of the DuraSpray smell. AeroSpray is much more pungent and seems off-gas more strongly. Something to consider if you’re working in an attached garage.  

What sprays better?
Another thing to consider is the spray pattern, DuraSpray gives you a solid “fan” pattern. This is MUCH better than the “tennis ball” spray pattern. Which is what you’ll typically find with lower-quality aerosol paint cans. Yuck.
Some of the AeroSprays allow you to fine-tune the paint flow with a slider on the nozzle itself. That makes a small difference, but that extra bit of control is nice. Small differences do add up. 

2k DuraSpray contains more paint because the activator doesn’t take up room in the can

“But, c’mon, JD. I like harsh chemicals because they work” I don’t disagree with you. 
Look… There was a time when I believed that green/healthy = crap. That just isn’t the case in this day and age. Science will move us forward whether you like it or not. I’ll let the DuraSpray test results speak for themselves. These coatings work and they work well.  

These came out great!

Here are some of the tests that were ran before launching DuraSpray.
Salt Spray Chamber, 1000 hrs. For primers and topcoats. 
QUV, 720 hrs. For clear and topcoat.
Impact Tested
180 Degree Bend Tested
Chemical Resistance Testing. MEK solvents and gasoline.

All tests are performed to ASTM or DIN EN ISO standards, and all coatings passed. 

The delicious, TL;DR take-aways. 
To summarize, AeroSpray is what you’d want for 2K coating on medium-sized projects, that you need to cure quickly. It comes with some extra smell. On some cans, you get an adjustable nozzle for some extra control. Once you pop the bladder, the paint will harden in the can after 48 hours. The paint will be fully cured and ready to hold up to chemicals after 3-5 days.  

DuraSpray is great for getting a 2K quality coating on many different projects, at different times. There’s also less of a health risk since DuraSpray Primers and Topcoats don’t contain any isocyanates. DuraSpray doesn’t smell as strongly, and DuraSprays contain some more paint. They take 8-10 days to fully cure. This can be sped up with other methods, and extra humidity. DuraSpray will still be “touch-dry” in 12 hours.  

Quick note for the people that need to hear this again: remember to ALWAYS wear your respirator (with organic vapor filters), and cover your skin when spraying any paints. Paint the part itself, not your lungs, bozo.  

Check out the DuraSpray and AeroSpray line HERE

You can check out the video HERE 

Send us a pic of you using these coatings! @EastwoodCo on Instagram. 
Thank you for reading,
-JD
Brand Ambassador/Honda Motorcycle Wrangler 

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