ScottC

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  • ScottC
    Keymaster

    You are close to the proper set up. To make the perfect single flare you will want to use OP 0 with the line just snug in the dies to allow it to push and level everything out. Then with the line still just snug run OP 1 to push the line the proper depth inside. Now you tighten the clamp on the split dies to lock the line in place and run OP 2. This will give you the perfect flare.

    in reply to: F150 project #36277
    ScottC
    Keymaster

    Our Epoxy primer can be a great sealer/base primer to start your paint job. Then the urethane primer would be best to “block” the areas nice an laser straight. Though if these are new fiberglass parts you may not need the Urethane if you are happy with the look of the panel.

    in reply to: Almost Bare Metal & Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulator #36275
    ScottC
    Keymaster

    Based on what you are describing with the interior of a tubing, I would recommend you using our Internal frame coating. This product will lock down the rust inside the tubing and protect it in the future. This way you do not have to worry about getting converter on areas that do not have rust.

    in reply to: Repriming Epoxy after blocking #36274
    ScottC
    Keymaster

    Since the Contour Poly primer can be applied direct to metal you can actually go over the mixture of bare metal an and epoxy with no problem. This would save you a step and not have to apply additional products.

    in reply to: Priming over sanded clear #36273
    ScottC
    Keymaster

    You can certainly sand to bare metal and scuff existing clear. Once you are ready for paint you could use our Epoxy primer over everything to seal it all in. From here you can either go into a primer surfacer to block the surface or right to paint if you are happy with the outcome when looking down the panel after Epoxy. This process would save you time from stripping everything to bare metal.

    in reply to: Clear coat #36272
    ScottC
    Keymaster

    You would want to check with the instructions for the clear to make sure you get the correct grit. Most clears would be around 800 grit. This will allow you flatten out any peel and get ready for a you next coats. To hopefully eliminate dry spray in the future try reducing your clear to help it flow out.

    in reply to: hard to get to #36271
    ScottC
    Keymaster

    The perfect product for areas you cannot get to would be our Internal Frame coating. This product comes with a 2 foot wand and a nozzle at the end that sprays 360 degrees to cover all. This product will encapsulate and trap the rust.

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