I’m redoing an old mower deck which has quite a bit of mostly surface rust (see pictures attached), with some pitting but no rust through. I want to keep the budget on this relatively low, but I also want to do a good quality job that will last for many years (this will be working equipment, though, and not for show). I do not have blasting or sprayer or supplied air respirator equipment and do not want to invest in them for this project. I do have a simple half mask respirator.
I’ve done a lot of reading of posts on this forum and other resources and think I know how I want to proceed, but wanted to get some confirmation and also have a couple of questions.
I think the best approach to get a quality job with a low budget is to:
-Sand and scrape away loose rust and paint.
-Clean with PRE.
-Use chemical rust remover on pitted areas and then fill in with JB Weld.
-Use a rust converter on remaining rust.
-Use Rust Encapsulator over rusty spots and bare metal (after prepping the bare metal by scuff sanding)
-Topcoat with quality spray paint.
-Does that sound like a good approach for what I am trying to accomplish or would attempting to remove rust chemically and then using self etching primer give better results? I don’t think using epoxy primer would be a good option for me because of the expense and perhaps more vapor hazards.
-Regarding the pitted areas, if I did not remove rust and fill with JB Weld, would RE fill in and protect these areas pretty well? I’m not concerned about how they look, just about protecting the metal and extending life.
-When applying RE to rust spots, is it important to make sure it does not overspray on painted areas so that adherence of topcoat is not affected?
-Is RE compatible with other rust converters? I have another product (I think it is a Permatex product) on hand which I bought before discovering your products.
Great forum and sounds like great products which I am looking forward to trying.