Hi guys, I have been reading a lot of the threads on here the last couple days about rust treatment and maybe didn’t get to the one I needed to read yet.
I am in the process of a frame off resto of my TR6. The body tub and other sheet metal I have chemically (hardware store paint striper to get most of the build up off) then sent out for soda and sand blast. I have just a few areas now to finish up cleaning.
For the finish I am thinking about using the truck bed coating for under the body tub, inner fender wells, back side if fenders, (inside car) the floor pans and spare tire tub. The rest of the body will get some sort of color topcoat but there is another tread question.
I still have a few areas where the rust is/was showing that I am sure the cancer is still in. I like what I have read about the Eastwood’s 2-part RC and RE. I also like what I have read about the self-etching epoxy primer. But which way to go? Would it be better to coat (brush or spray) the RC and then RE just the affected areas and prime the remaining or RC the effected areas and RE the entire body tub and back side of fenders?
Also would it be better to use the H-DAR in the doorposts and rockers before applying the other treatments or should I wait until those areas have their final finish? That the H-DAR runs and will seep into the nooks, crannies and through the seams before it cures. (which is a good thing) but could this cause problems with the other products as far as keeping surfaces clean and getting good bonding?
And one other area. (the British in there infantine wisdom) there is a weld seam in the firewall right behind the battery. There doesn’t seam to be any signs of pitting, swelling or bubbling in the seam (engine side) but I noticed when cleaning the firewall (interior side) at that same point there was what looked like the WHITE POWDER but still no pitting, bubbling or swelling of the seam. The seam is a very tight and solid, what should I use to neutralize and protect this area and how to apply. I know about the baking soda but as tight as the seam is I don’t think any of it will get in there and then I could flush it either. Would using a heat gun to warm the area and then H-DAR help protect this and neutralize/seal the seam?
Thanks for any help.