Im a first time shooter, I have spent hours studying, readying and researching. I attempted my first full car paint using the Contour poly primer, Blue Pearl basecoat and the low VOC 4:1 Urethane clear. I invested in the right compressor and use the Eastwood Concours gun with a 1.4 tip on the base and clear.
I ended up doing THREE full paints, here is a break down of each and how the clear coat affected each.
1st attempt – Paint layed out well, nice coverage. The clear mixed straight 4:1 orange peeled, excessively. I expected some being a first time painter in my garage, but when you can see it as its hitting the car never laying out I was concerned. I screwed up and proceeded to do the entire car thinking I would let it lay thick and sand it smooth. I ended up with some striping in the color (do to my inexperience) so I needed to repaint the car. I sanded it down to about the paint level with 600 grit and started again.
2nd attempt – Paint went on well, I learned to stop and look it all over for striping and had a nice flat even color. I let it flash extra long (thinking that might have something do with the orange peel). I sprayed the clear, again orange peel…excessively as it layed out off the gun. I adjusted air pressures, I tried adjusting the fan, I tried distance (close than far) I tried going slower (which made it worse because it now captured bubbles and ran). I didnt have a reducer, the instructions say you dont need it, but I tired anyway. I had some laquer thinner, I put in half an ounce into 12 ounces of clear and tried that, it seemed to help but I know its not the right stuff but let me know I did need a reducer. I laied it on thick again thinking I could sand it smooth. As I started sanding out the bubbles, I found the entire car was covered in them. Either from the thinner I used or the lack of flash time (1 because Im a rookie and 2 I was frustrated with the orange peel) The Color lays awesome each time I spray it so its not so much me as the product not being forgiving for my mistakes. I blocked the car down using 320 to rip the clear off and then 600 to level it, I went so far down I broke down to primer again in many spots in fear the stacking of paint would weaken the overall finish.
3rd attempt – Paint went on well, I used the least amount of product of the three because I have gotten better at reading the paint coverage and my speed. I let it flash for an hour and mixed the clear coat this time with the proper reducer, but sadly the reducer says to mix in accordance with the primer, paint or clear….the clear says it doesnt need it. I added half an ounce ot 12 ounces of clear/activator. I sprayed a scrap piece of metal that was primed and painted at the same time as the car. The clear orange peeled. I went up to a full part reducer to the 4:1 mix, it helped alot but I still had it. I have areas of the car that are better than others and a few I consider acceptable for the conditions. I did get some solvent pop in the rear corners where I ended up overlapping as I applied the last coat. As I did the rear quarter panel I then proceeded to do the top of the trunk and wrap down the rear of the car, those rear corners had a small section of overlap which developed solvent pop because the first layer was already outgassing as the second layer laid on top. I cant believe that the product is so sensitive to this, we are talking less than a few minutes. I didt the area all out of the same cup.
Overall if I had to do this all over again I would not use this product as my clearcoat. Granted I am not a pro and I have openly admited my own mistakes from the process. But this product seems very sensitive. I learned alot about mixing paint, I was given a tip of using the mixing stick to measure the viscosity of the plaint/clear and this product even with 20% reduction still seemed thick to me, which I believe is the final solution to the orange peel. I can spray paint just fine, the basecoat is an example of that, but this clearcoat is not for a first time user.[ATTACH]4537[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4538[/ATTACH]