few questions/clarifications for first attempt

Posted: February 25, 2014 By: sage1001

Home Forums Kevin Tetz’s Korner few questions/clarifications for first attempt

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    sage1001

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    Hello all! been reading for quite some time on here and other places and have decided to tackle this job on my own because I enjoy this kind of stuff and love learning new things. A quick(not really, so sorry!) overview of what I am up against and a few questions on exactly how i should approach this.

    I have a 94 mustang convertible black that i plan on repainting black as well, but haven’t decided if I will do it all or just the problem area’s. The hood is only 1 year old and been professionally painted and in good shape. I have new, unpainted unprimed polyurethane side skirts that will be going on the car. I have a few dents that need to be addressed, two small rust spots, about 2×2″ each one on the passenger door and one on the front fender. Both bumpers are in rough shape but flaking/chipped paint and spiderwebbing paint on the rear. The spoiler has lost it’s clear on one side of it and color is faded in this spot, otherwise there is no flaking peeling cracking, etc in the rest of the paint and it is the factory paint job.

    I am figuring i just as well paint the whole thing if i plan on doing the rust spots, bumpers and spoiler since that about takes care of the whole area once start to blend, etc since the hood and top dont need anything.

    Bumpers, side skirts and spoiler for sure will be done off of the car.

    I plan on using Urethane paint system as a BC/CC system as I like the idea of more gloss and leeway and extra protection to fix issues..

    Questions..

    1.) With planning on taking the bumper down to bare plastic, taking a few rust spots down to bare metal to repair, and the few dent repairs, would you recommend spraying the whole car with the epoxy primer and then sanding this down to smooth out?

    2.) in regard to question 1, Just need an adhesive promoter for the plastic bumpers and side skirts to get the primer to adhere right?

    3.) kind of goes with question 1 as well.. after i get the whole car roughed up and rust removed, should i then epoxy primer the whole car then fill and smooth the rust spots and dents with filler then spot prime over just these areas again? or should i just fill the bare metal then epoxy over the whole car to avoid having to prime whole car then spot prime? dented areas that need filled should be taken down to bare metal right?

    4.) Would you recommend using the 2k primer over the epoxy primer or only if i need more fill and can’t get a smooth finish with the epoxy?

    5.) when it comes to sanding primer, is it really only necessary if you still see imprefections in the coat, i.e. unlevel surfaces, scratches etc and if miss the recoat window? or how exactly do i know if i need to let primer dry further and sand?

    6.) When using your pre paint prep product, is this safe to use on all of your primers after they have dried? or do i just need to hit it with air, tack cloth, dish soap water…say i only need the epoxy primer which has up to a 5 day reapplication window before needing to rescuff.. I will most likely be unable to do all of this in one day is why i ask.

    An overview of my plan..

    -DA bumpers with 240-320 to take down to plastic
    -Scuff whole car with 320 to dull the existing paint job (this can be done dry or with DA?)
    -remove rust by going down to bare metal and filling,sanding to smooth the filler
    -remove dents by filling, sanding to smooth
    -adhesion promoter on bumers and side skirts, spoiler
    -epoxy primer whole car
    -sand with 400 then 600 2-3 days after application to smooth/level/remove imperfections (can this be done with DA or should it be hand ? know directions say wet sand if 1 day after application and can do dry 2-3 days later..
    -2k primer whole car if necessary
    -sand with 400 then 600 ( i’m assuming sanding would be necessary again since if i’m using 2k since it was to further fill imperfections?? see wet can be done within 2-3 and dry 3-4 hours after applying then base within 18 hours
    —If I do not sand the primers but miss the recoat window i know i’ll need to resand just to scuff up.. is this done wet or dry and what grit? wet 600??
    – spray base coats
    -spray clear coats, wet sand with 1500-2000 and spray another coat if necessary

    This is not a show car, but has been my pride and joy/project car for quite a while. It does not need to be show car condition but want to make sure I do it right. I used to be around and help with a lot of body work but that has been a very long time and i’m rusty on the start to finish process since just always did what I was told when helping. Sorry for the long post, and i’m sure there are questions I had that i cant think of now, but if anybody can offer insight, tips or anything else please do so!

    Thanks,
    Cody

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