Fast etch – encapsulator – 2k ceramic Chassis black Timing

Viewing 1 post (of 1 total)
  • Author
  • #35290


    I am restoring a ’78 Trans Am. Right now i am working on the trunk and rear frame area. I am cutting out some rusty sections and welding in new patches in the trunk area where i can reach the mig nozzle. In a few places i cant replace the trunk metal. The frame had been undercoated early in the car’s life and when i scrape away the undercoating the paint is truly pristine late 70’s GM factory paint (still shiny!). There are spots on the frame where the undercoater missed – these spots were also missed by GM for the body color paint but there is the factory red oxide primer intact at these locations with light surface rust in a few spots.

    The majority of the rust is surface with a few spots of light to moderate pitting in areas i cant cut and weld in new metal.

    The plan:

    80 grit grind on rust patches that i can reach with my tools.

    Fast etch on those areas plus any others i cant grind (panel corners, etc) followed by pre to clean up any residual rust.

    In any bad areas where a few fast etch doesnt appear to be pulling all the rust or areas of concern treat with ew rust converter and wipe/pre any uncured converter.

    “prime” area with 2-3 coats of encapsulator. This includes the factory painted frame sections.

    Cover encapulator with 1-2 coats of 2k extreme ceramic chassis black.


    I do not have adequate spray gun apparatus so i will be doing this with brushes and aerosol cans.
    I have ony limited access to the car (time wise) soi.d like to get the re and 2k laid down during the same weekend if possible.

    My questions:

    Are there any compatibility issues with laying ew rust converter on areas recently treated with fast etch (and neutralized with pre)?

    Are there any compatibility issues with laying re over areas treated with fast etch/pre?

    I want to maximize the stick on the re – for the old factory painted areas what grit should i use to give it enough “tooth”? Is 320 a good choice? Getting down to bare metal wont really work given the access/time constraints.

    What is a good recoat window for the re (with a brush application or aerosol) ? How many coats are recommended for a good primer base?

    What is a good window to follow the re with the 2kmin order to get good adhesion between the 2 paint types?

    For a brush application, what is amgoodmrecoat window for the 2k?

    Any other compatibility or other potential gotchas.using these products in this sequence for this application?


Viewing 1 post (of 1 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Back to top button