Base Coat, Clear Coat, Single Stage

Posted: March 29, 2015 By: tricyclerob

Home Forums Kevin Tetz’s Korner Base Coat, Clear Coat, Single Stage

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    tricyclerob

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    Let me first get this out of the way.
    Only a knucklehead restores a ’92 Jeep Cherokee. Spend $8- 10,000 to make a $3000 vehicle worth $5000. If I’m lucky.
    Ok, I feel better now.
    All I can say is I really like this vehicle.

    I replaced the floors on both sides, along with a patch or two…or 5. All butt welded and after a skim coat of aluminized filler, seams are invisable.
    At the same time, needle scaled off all the old undercoat.

    Then, sanded to bare metal the entire undercarriage and fender wells as well as the firewall and inner fender panels.
    I should mention the interior and running gear is out as is the engine and trans, and it’s on a rotisserie.

    The original plan was to epoxy prime, sand with course scotch brite and shoot with single stage urethane, to avoid any wet sanding on the underneath. Just too many nooks and crannies.

    Now, one thing has led to another.

    I thought the outside body paint was in pretty good shape as the prior owner had a very good base/clear done.
    The Jeep has the lower body cladding, and I had to replace the bottoms of both drivers side doors due to rust, but welded and finished under where the cladding goes.
    The cladding was silver and the top of the cladding was silver “tape” to continue the silver to a body line. It was in terrible shape, so I used a tape eraser wheel to remove it. The prior re-paint was taped down to the silver and I was just going to paint silver up to that body line[where i removed the tape].

    Finally, the questions.

    Now, at that line, I see about 1/8 to 1/4″ of the clear lifting, but only in a few spots. I was really trying to avoid an all over paint job. I’m pondering repainting to the body line at the upper part of the door where there’s a pin stripe. I am getting the new paint color matched to the fuel door.

    The clear is lifting only at 2 or three spots along where the prior paint job was taped, everything else is tight.

    Now I’m looking at the door openings and thinking, I should shoot them.

    If I paint just the lower doors, can I just wet sand the clear and shoot over that? Should I use sealer even if everything is in good shape?

    So now, I’m painting the underneath,firewall and inner fenders with single stage. [Or, should I just go with base/clear there as well?] the door jams, and if I’m painting the lower part doors, I should just continue along the fenders as well.

    Sooo, the only part I’m not painting is the roof, hood, and the upper and inner part of the doors. But, I am avoiding disassembling the door glass and trim, etc..

    Or, do I just repair and blend the few spots where the clear is lifting, and go with the original plan of just painting the silver, and the underbody.

    Or, am I in so deep, I just paint the whole thing, [which I would really try to avoid]

    Decisions, decisions…

    thanks,
    robj

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