1996 XJ Cherokee Build

Posted: September 14, 2015 By: MikeL

Home Forums Projects 1996 XJ Cherokee Build

Viewing 2 posts - 1 through 2 (of 2 total)
  • Author

    Posts

  • #36019

    MikeL

    Member

    I just started working on this project with a friend, so I figured I’d document the progress here. He’s using lots of Eastwood products throughout the Jeep from start to finish.

    UWrRKCw.jpg

    rkY7f4D.jpg

    The first thing he wanted to tackle is the floor pans. Even though a lot of it appears to be surface rust in the photos, there’s not much usable metal left.

    CeXGvfp.jpg

    R9CtQC4.jpg

    The first thing we did was to clean up the rusted areas along the frame rail where we knew the spot welds would be so that we could actually see them. Even after cleaning with a wire wheel and 3M Bristle Discs, the spot welds were really tough to see because of the way the rust had eaten away at the metal. We also took care of the old seam sealer along the edges so that we could remove the pan and not burn it when putting the new one in.

    ZubsqoE.jpg

    00oThvk.jpg

    l1jneU1.jpg

    Lots of spot welds to drill out.

    xnx5rRj.jpg

    Quick overlay test fit for the new front floor pan.

    yMs7hhv.jpg

    After a lot of drilling, most of the spot welds had let go, but there were a few that were hidden by the rust where that still kept it attached to the frame rail. A few quick minutes spent with the Eastwood Versa-Cut 40 plasma cutter and we could curl up the floor to see the hidden welds.

    1aRxVPD.jpg

    Turned the Jeep into a Fintstones car

    ttOOzvX.jpg

    rDEGHfT.jpg

    Rail all cleaned up…

    GoSZZOJ.jpg

    … and the inside coated with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. I also sprayed weld-thru primer on the flat surfaces of the rail where it will be welded.

    mxph3PV.jpg

    mxph3PV.jpg

    ThkIjLJ.jpg

    Since it was so tough to see the spot welds, it wasn’t easy to use the spot weld cutter bit correctly and only go through the first layer of metal and keep the frame rail intact. We had to drill larger, sometimes sloppier holes to make sure we got the whole weld to release. This resulted in regular holes through both layers instead of just the old floor. Since we did it like this, the best way to attach the floor pans to the frame itself is to plug weld it from the bottom. I used an angle grinder with a stripping disc to grind the original coating away on the bottom where it will sit against the frame rail, then coated that same area with Eastwood Weld-thru primer. This allows you to weld to the surface, but have primer coating the rest of the panel to prevent rust.

    n0co77P.jpg

    QSYILsR.jpg

    Final test fit before welding.

    avgmG1B.jpg

    We decided to overlap the pans for a cleaner, easier job instead of cutting them precisely and butt welding them. The rear pan goes in first, then the front pan gets welded in on top of it. Plug welds were done from the bottom in the factory locations, and then the sides were stitched about every 4-6″.

    d8ydCo8.jpg

    oQT0hKu.jpg

    NqESVQb.jpg

    Once the welding was done, we spread seam sealer on the top and bottom of the new pans just as the factory does. The final result for the entire floor will be truck bed liner for durability, so this part can be a little sloppy, it won’t be visible through the rough bed liner texture. The most important thing here was to make sure that no moisture can get between the panels from either inside or underneath.

    uv79mNL.jpg

    P2YUeWj.jpg

    One side down, just the driver’s front left to do!

    4babEge.jpg

    #37073

    Recountryman

    Participant

    I know this is a old How Too..but hoping your still around and can tell me where did you did get the floor plugs?

Viewing 2 posts - 1 through 2 (of 2 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Top Selling Products

Comments are closed