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Tips and Tricks to Flare your own brake lines

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41 thoughts on Tips and Tricks to Flare your own brake lines

  • I just purchased the turret style double flare tool also and am doing all new brake lines on my 63 Ford Galaxie 500. I did notice however, that the dies were installed on the turret and were not corresponding with the top of the turret showing the steps and sizes. Before I move these around properly, will this void my warranty?

  • That’s very odd, first time I’ve heard that! They thread out, so that is no problem to swap them around. If you have any issues or further questions feel free to email our tech department directly: techelp@eastwood.com

  • Not to be picky but …….when pressing the brake pedal you don’t “send” fluid to each wheel. What actually happens is you “move” the fluid as it already in every line and component of the hydraulic system….just saying.

  • Very helpful, but info have a question? How can one tell what flares they need? For example my master cylinder is from a 69 corvette non -power disc brakes. My rear axle from strange engineering has braided line on it. Then there’s the front disc on my 80 camaro. It currently has no brake lines and I need to make new ones.

  • Usually you can look at the socket or fitting that you do have and compare them with photos of each which can be found online. The sockets/flares are obviously different once you see them side by side. Hope that helps!

  • Ok, I have the good vise mounted Eastwood flaring tool! I am trying to do 37 degree flares! I split the ends every time! I have double annealed 304 stainless, .028 thick straight from summit! I have tried this tool 20 times and every flare has at least one crack in it? Yes I lube up the end, yes I debur, and clean it well! Who here is using this tool for stainless brake lines and 37 double flare and it is working, can you give me some help? Thanks

  • I’m having the same trouble. I’m finding that the vacuum is taking the past of least resistance, which is pulling air in around the bleeder screw threads, instead of pulling fluid from the master cylinder. What I do is use the mityvac to get as much fluid in the system as possible. Sometimes that is enough to get the system to a point where you can gravity bleed it.

  • Nuts! I had never done a brake flare before or even seen one made. I followed the instructions carefully. I made two bad flares, both obvious immediately. Otherwise I did a complete custom set of brake lines for a ’65 Malibu that work perfectly and with no leaks. If you can’t follow instructions, hire a professional.

  • I bought the Eastwood flaring tool and it broke on the first time. Eastwood exchanged it no charge & the replacement works great. The first tool must have had a casting flaw. Eastwood has been a great company to buy from. Thanks again Eastwood!

  • Had a guy way back in the eighties when I was in the tool business, was doing a restore on an English car that had the bubble flare lines and he asked me if I had a tool to make those flares. I looked at the flare and immediately reconized it as the first step in the double flaring process and advised him about the tool to use and he told me that, that wouldn’t work. By reading your article I see that I was correct. Knew it all along, but it pays to always be attentive and learn something new. I have both the wing nut and pro style flaring tool(another make purchased back in the mid seventies) and both will work well if used properly.

  • A big problem with the wingnut type is over-compressing the double flare. The edge should be round. If it appears sharp, you’ve crushed it and it’s little better than a single flare.

  • The hydraulic flaring tool (#2) in your article can also make fuel line flares and power steering line flares…. useful when oem replacement lines are unavailable.

  • The Hydra-Flare is an extremely versatile tool. There are usually a couple online merchants that have em on sale. 45° Brake line only is 71300 the Universal set is 71475.
    The universal set is only missing the 3/8″ GM transmission push fit dies and the 37° flare set. Fairly easy to purchase both if you need em.
    Don’t mash the flare tool pump handle when you’re finishing the double crimp. If you take it easy it’ll make excellent flares with very little effort. I took a piece of brake line and made 4 or 5 flares to get a feel for the force needed. Never needed to make more test pieces after that.

  • I usually like to try and do things myself, nut I think this is one job I would leave to the professionals. I wouldn’t want to mess up and have the brakes fail when I am on the road. It was interesting to learn more about how the system works. I especially like your tip to protect any parts that will be exposed to break fluid. Will the fluid damage other parts of the car?

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41 Comments

  1. I just purchased the turret style double flare tool also and am doing all new brake lines on my 63 Ford Galaxie 500. I did notice however, that the dies were installed on the turret and were not corresponding with the top of the turret showing the steps and sizes. Before I move these around properly, will this void my warranty?

  2. That’s very odd, first time I’ve heard that! They thread out, so that is no problem to swap them around. If you have any issues or further questions feel free to email our tech department directly: techelp@eastwood.com

  3. Not to be picky but …….when pressing the brake pedal you don’t “send” fluid to each wheel. What actually happens is you “move” the fluid as it already in every line and component of the hydraulic system….just saying.

  4. Very helpful, but info have a question? How can one tell what flares they need? For example my master cylinder is from a 69 corvette non -power disc brakes. My rear axle from strange engineering has braided line on it. Then there’s the front disc on my 80 camaro. It currently has no brake lines and I need to make new ones.

  5. Usually you can look at the socket or fitting that you do have and compare them with photos of each which can be found online. The sockets/flares are obviously different once you see them side by side. Hope that helps!

  6. Ok, I have the good vise mounted Eastwood flaring tool! I am trying to do 37 degree flares! I split the ends every time! I have double annealed 304 stainless, .028 thick straight from summit! I have tried this tool 20 times and every flare has at least one crack in it? Yes I lube up the end, yes I debur, and clean it well! Who here is using this tool for stainless brake lines and 37 double flare and it is working, can you give me some help? Thanks

  7. I’m having the same trouble. I’m finding that the vacuum is taking the past of least resistance, which is pulling air in around the bleeder screw threads, instead of pulling fluid from the master cylinder. What I do is use the mityvac to get as much fluid in the system as possible. Sometimes that is enough to get the system to a point where you can gravity bleed it.

  8. Nuts! I had never done a brake flare before or even seen one made. I followed the instructions carefully. I made two bad flares, both obvious immediately. Otherwise I did a complete custom set of brake lines for a ’65 Malibu that work perfectly and with no leaks. If you can’t follow instructions, hire a professional.

  9. I bought the Eastwood flaring tool and it broke on the first time. Eastwood exchanged it no charge & the replacement works great. The first tool must have had a casting flaw. Eastwood has been a great company to buy from. Thanks again Eastwood!

  10. Had a guy way back in the eighties when I was in the tool business, was doing a restore on an English car that had the bubble flare lines and he asked me if I had a tool to make those flares. I looked at the flare and immediately reconized it as the first step in the double flaring process and advised him about the tool to use and he told me that, that wouldn’t work. By reading your article I see that I was correct. Knew it all along, but it pays to always be attentive and learn something new. I have both the wing nut and pro style flaring tool(another make purchased back in the mid seventies) and both will work well if used properly.

  11. A big problem with the wingnut type is over-compressing the double flare. The edge should be round. If it appears sharp, you’ve crushed it and it’s little better than a single flare.

  12. The hydraulic flaring tool (#2) in your article can also make fuel line flares and power steering line flares…. useful when oem replacement lines are unavailable.

  13. The Hydra-Flare is an extremely versatile tool. There are usually a couple online merchants that have em on sale. 45° Brake line only is 71300 the Universal set is 71475.
    The universal set is only missing the 3/8″ GM transmission push fit dies and the 37° flare set. Fairly easy to purchase both if you need em.
    Don’t mash the flare tool pump handle when you’re finishing the double crimp. If you take it easy it’ll make excellent flares with very little effort. I took a piece of brake line and made 4 or 5 flares to get a feel for the force needed. Never needed to make more test pieces after that.

  14. I usually like to try and do things myself, nut I think this is one job I would leave to the professionals. I wouldn’t want to mess up and have the brakes fail when I am on the road. It was interesting to learn more about how the system works. I especially like your tip to protect any parts that will be exposed to break fluid. Will the fluid damage other parts of the car?

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